In Burgundy, pedigree matters—especially in Vosne-Romanée, where cellars whisper stories louder than any marketing deck. Enter AJ Vaona, a new domaine birthed by a not-so-new pair: Justine Mongeard and Alexandre Carminati. If those names ring bells, it’s because they should. The estate is linked to Mongeard-Mugneret, both by family vines and literal bricks—the cellar once belonged to Dominique Mugneret and is where Justine’s grandfather, Jean Mongeard, vinified his first vintages. That’s not just history; it’s terroir with receipts.
AJ Vaona is a hybrid model—both domaine and négociant—pulling fruit largely from family sources. The couple are stack-and-rack veterans: Justine managed at Mongeard-Mugneret and other top Côte de Beaune/Côte de Nuits addresses, while Alexandre spent seven years as Vincent Mongeard’s right hand before time at Maison Nicolas Potel. Translation: they didn’t just wake up one morning and decide to slap a label on some barrels. As Steen Öhman at Winehog puts it, “They have prepared this startup for many years” —Steen Öhman, Winehog.
The stylistic headline? Finesse over fireworks. Öhman notes, “The style is more refined and pure than the Mongeard’s more extravagant oaked wines.” —Steen Öhman, Winehog. That tracks with what’s in the glass so far: a subtle Vosne imprint, elegance leaning neutral and discreet, and a vibe that feels confident without strutting. Think tailored blazer instead of sequined jacket—classic, clean, and intentionally underlined rather than bolded.
From what’s publicly tasted of the 2023s, the whites show lift and freshness, while the reds glide more than they stomp. The Bourgogne Blanc 2023 carries lively energy and good density—very drinkable without feeling simple. Meursault 2023 is a fun curveball from a Vosne-rooted team: vivid, balanced, with cooler phenolics and 50% new oak handled like a well-timed cutback on a clean shoulder. It’s not “big Meursault” territory; it’s a tighter line with clarity.
On the red side, the Bourgogne Rouge 2023 comes off lightfooted and generous—more silk scarf than leather jacket. The Hautes Côtes de Nuits Les Dames Huguettes 2023 sits cooler, with a light mid-palate that pulls the site’s elegance forward. If you’re into wines that emphasize grace over volume, these notes should get you curious. Scores landed in the mid-to-high 80s in Öhman’s book—respectable for a brand-new project still finding its cadence.
What’s interesting here isn’t just the quality—it’s the philosophy. Burgundy’s pendulum swings between opulence and restraint, and AJ Vaona is clearly setting up camp on the finesse side. If you’ve felt pummeled by oak or alcohol in recent vintages, this is promising. If you love the “Vosne perfume,” expect it as an accent, not the main chorus. The neutral, elegant touch suggests wines that will develop on nuance rather than broad strokes—more chamber music than stadium rock.
Also notable: the name. Vaona is the former Gaulish name for Vosne, a poetic nod to roots without falling into nostalgia overload. When a new label signals continuity while quietly rewriting the house style, Burgundy fans should take notice. I’d expect more precision to emerge as the cellar—and sourcing—settle over the next vintages. First launches are like first sets on a windy morning: reading the break matters, but repetition builds rhythm.
If you’re building a 2023 Burgundy shortlist, consider AJ Vaona as a scout-and-hold pick. Try the Bourgogne Blanc 2023 for easy-drinking freshness, the Meursault 2023 if you appreciate clarity over weight, and the reds for that featherweight Vosne-adjacent elegance. Bonus points if you’re cellaring smart: these wines aren’t trying to win the “biggest” award, and that often ages better than the showboats.
One more thing: the launch model—combining domaine fruit with négociant sourcing—can be a superpower if curated carefully. With their relationships and experience, Justine and Alexandre are positioned to assemble a coherent style across different appellations. That’s harder than it looks, and it’s refreshing to see the early wines speak a consistent language.
Bottom line: AJ Vaona is a new chapter from deeply rooted storytellers, and the first pages read with clarity, modesty, and promise. Burgundy doesn’t always need to shout to be heard. Sometimes a quiet, elegant line cuts the cleanest.
Quotes attributed to Steen Öhman, Winehog.
Key Takeaways
- Pinot Noir lovers should take note—this story has implications for your next pour.
- Key themes: AJ Vaona, Burgundy 2023, Vosne-Romanée—stay informed on these evolving trends.
- The takeaway? Keep exploring, keep tasting, and don’t be afraid to try something new.
