Burgundy keeps getting pricier, and Winehog’s Steen Öhman—never one to sugarcoat—just announced he’s tightening the screws for 2026. Translation: the bar’s going up, and the meh stuff isn’t getting a pass. As someone who loves a good village bottle that punches above its weight, I’m not mad about this. Burgundy is about energy—spark, glow, lift—and when prices rise faster than a spring swell, expectations should rise too.
Key Takeaways
- Key themes: Burgundy, Winehog, Steen Öhman—stay informed on these evolving trends.
- The takeaway? Keep exploring, keep tasting, and don’t be afraid to try something new.
Why This Matters
The wine world moves fast, and this story captures a pivotal moment. Whether you’re a casual sipper or a dedicated collector, understanding these shifts helps you make smarter choices about what ends up in your glass.
Öhman’s point is clear: indifferent wines in the lower to mid ranges—especially in warmer vintages—aren’t cutting it. He’s often been generous, trying to find the silver lining in bottles that are technically fine but emotionally flat. That’s changing. In his words, “Life is too short for these tedious wines.” —Steen Öhman, Winehog
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The technical culprit? Heavy-handed extraction and chunky oak in hot years. That combo can flatten Burgundy’s natural elegance, giving you structure without soul. Or as he puts it, “Extraction, or heavier oak are not really the ideal combination for a hot vintage.” —Steen Öhman, Winehog If you’ve ever tasted a 2018 that felt more gym bro than ballerina, you know what he means.
What’s refreshing is his framework going forward, which leans into emotional resonance—vins d’émotion—over box-ticking correctness. He’s essentially sorting bottles into four vibes:
- Vins d’émotion: Wines that hum—lively, hedonistic, indulgent. The kind that make you text friends mid-sip.
- Potential vins d’émotion: Fresh and light, promising more with time or context.
- Quaffables: Easy, casual drinkers. No fireworks, but they’ll play nice on a weeknight.
- Tedious / Annoying: Technically acceptable but emotionally vacant—or worse, actively bothersome.
Is this harsh? Maybe. But Burgundy isn’t a participation trophy region. With climate shifts and sticker shock, consumers deserve honesty about what truly delights versus what merely fills a glass. And Öhman is candid that his beat is the top ten percent of producers—Burgundy’s haute couture. That doesn’t mean the rest is junk; it means the standard should be whether a wine makes you want to chase the next bottle, not just check another producer off your list.
So what does this mean for your buying strategy in 2026?
- Prioritize energy over weight. Look for wines described as vibrant, airy, lifted—especially in warm years. If notes lean into chocolatey density and oak spice, tread carefully.
- Read between the lines. Reviewers often telegraph their lack of enthusiasm. Words like “correct,” “solid,” or “competent” are red flags for emotional flatness.
- Village and lesser crus can still sing. The best producers deliver magic from modest sites. Focus on domaines with a track record of finesse in hot vintages.
- Cellar for glow, not bulk. Wines built on freshness age into silk. Wines built on extraction age into furniture.
There’s also a cultural piece here. Burgundy’s essence isn’t power—it’s texture, nuance, and resonance. The best bottles feel like a great surf session: balanced, alive, a little wild. They don’t pummel you; they carry you. That’s the spirit of vins d’émotion, and it’s a welcome counterweight to the global trend of bigger-is-better.
To be fair, not everyone wants soul-searching Pinot with every pour. There’s room for quaffables—Tuesday night wines that do their job and don’t ask for poetry. But if the price tag is flirting with luxury, the wine should deliver more than competent fruit and oak polish. It should have a heartbeat.
In short, Öhman’s sharpening of the pencil is good news for drinkers who value honesty and excitement in the glass. Expect cleaner lines in his reviews and a stronger sense of what matters most: joy. Because Burgundy should glow, not grind.
Original author: Steen Öhman. Source site: Winehog – with a passion.
