If you’ve ever stared down a Burgundy wine list and felt your wallet flinch, you’re not alone. Steen Öhman of Winehog just planted a flag in the Côte d’Or sand: enough with the gouging. In a sharp, much-needed piece, he calls out restaurants inflating local bottles beyond reason—and announces real consequences.
Key Takeaways
- Key themes: Burgundy, wine markups, restaurant pricing—stay informed on these evolving trends.
- The takeaway? Keep exploring, keep tasting, and don’t be afraid to try something new.
Why This Matters
Behind every great bottle is a story, and this one matters. It reflects broader trends shaping how wine is made, sold, and enjoyed. Stay curious—your palate will thank you.
Öhman isn’t mincing words or hiding behind vague grievances. He’s drawing a line, and drawing it publicly: “From the beginning of 2026 I will remove the worst and most greedy restaurants…” — Steen Öhman, Winehog.
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That’s not just performative outrage; it’s a service to readers. Winehog’s recommendations carry weight with Burgundy lovers who actually know domaine pricing and can do the math. When restaurant margins go from healthy to obscene, the social contract snaps. As he puts it very plainly: “The kitchens do huge margins on local wines” — Steen Öhman, Winehog.
Here’s the vibe: Burgundy thrives on emotion and authenticity—vins d’émotion, if you will. It’s a region where joy in the glass matters more than bragging rights at the table. When lesser-demand wines get hyper-inflated, it kneecaps the culture. You scare off the curious, punish the loyal, and turn the experience into a status exercise. That’s not hospitality; that’s a cash grab with cutlery.
Öhman’s approach is equal parts surfer chill and Ivy League accountability. First, the restaurants will quietly vanish from his list. Then, expect transparent notes like “wines too expensive” or “kitchen uninspired – with sloppy sous-chef cooking!” The message is clear: if you want the spotlight, earn it—with honest pricing and food that respects the wines it’s paired with.
So what should Burgundy-bound diners do—besides practicing a deep-breathing exercise when they see the list?
– Ask about value sections or off-the-beaten-path producers. Burgundy isn’t just grand crus with grandiose pricing; there’s soul in regional and village bottlings from thoughtful growers.
– Don’t sleep on by-the-glass. Some places pour smart, fair selections that let you taste across terroirs without committing to a mortgage.
– Be open about your budget and intentions. A good sommelier will meet you where you are. If the response is defensive or salesy, that’s your cue to pivot to water and dessert.
– Consider corkage—if offered. Transparent corkage can be a middle path: restaurants get revenue, you get a bottle you trust without roulette pricing.
– Reward the good actors. When you encounter fair markups, balanced lists, and kitchens that cook with humility and precision, go back. Tip well. Tell friends. The only way to drown greed is with demand for integrity.
To restaurateurs who might bristle: sustainable margins beat quick hits. Wine is the connective tissue of Burgundy hospitality. Hyper-inflating low-demand bottles is a short-term sugar high—then the regulars fade, the buzz dies, and your list turns into an Instagram museum. Transparent pricing, seasonal food that isn’t trying to outshine the bottle, and a sommelier who’s as excited about a fresh, lively Bourgogne as a trophy Chambertin—that’s how you build a ripple effect of goodwill.
And to the somm community: curating a list in Burgundy is like surfing a point break. You need balance, patience, and respect for the flow. Stock the icons, sure. But celebrate the wines that make people smile, not just flex. There’s a reason Winehog talks about “A true vin d’émotion – a Burgundy of passion.” If your list has more heart than hashtag, guests feel it.
Öhman’s move isn’t the end of fun; it’s the end of funny business. If a restaurant’s pricing makes regular folks shy away from a bottle that should be approachable, that’s not just a bad night—it’s bad for the region. Burgundy didn’t become Burgundy by gatekeeping; it became Burgundy by enchanting.
Will this shake things up? Probably. The beauty is that it invites a reset instead of a witch hunt. Restaurateurs who play fair will stand out. Diners will rediscover the joy of ordering with curiosity instead of caution. And the broader wine community gets a case study in how transparency and taste can coexist.
In other words: let’s bring the markup mentality back to earth and the wines back to the table. Because when Burgundy drinks like Burgundy, everyone wins—even your accountant.
“wines too expensive” — Steen Öhman, Winehog.
Source: https://winehog.org/greedy-restaurant-the-end-72374/
