We all had to learn new tricks in 2020—sourdough starters, Zoom etiquette, and how to turn a living room into a lifeline. In New Orleans, chef Tory McPhail (yes, that Commander’s Palace Tory) and his wife Britt didn’t just adapt—they built a home that drinks beautifully under pressure. Wine Spectator’s Hilary Sims dropped in for a look at how the McPhails engineered a Greek Revival sanctuary that flows like a great dinner service and sips like a well-aged Chablis.
Key Takeaways
- Key themes: New Orleans, home design, wine cellar—stay informed on these evolving trends.
- The takeaway? Keep exploring, keep tasting, and don’t be afraid to try something new.
Why This Matters
This isn’t just another headline—it’s a signal of where the wine news is headed. Paying attention now could save you money, introduce you to your next favorite bottle, or simply make you the most interesting person at your next dinner party.
First, there was the pivot. Commander’s Palace, a Wine Spectator Grand Award winner, flipped to curbside and a wine concierge program overnight. As Tory put it, “All heck breaks loose” (via Wine Spectator, Hilary Sims). Meanwhile, Britt jumped from wine distribution to Martin Wine Cellar, splitting time between the kitchen and the wine floor—proof that hospitality people don’t sit still, they remix.
“Don’t be afraid to try something new. “
Inside their 2018 build in the Irish Channel, the McPhails went big on livability. They traded extra bedrooms for one expansive, open chef’s kitchen and living space—think Viking appliances lined up for muscle-memory cooking and a dining nook made for long pours. As Tory told Sims, “Your home life becomes extremely important” (Wine Spectator). Translation: design for calm, cook for joy, and leave room for a dance break.
Let’s talk design moves you can steal:
- Flow first. The McPhails organized the kitchen from cold storage to prep to fire. It sounds obvious; it feels life-changing when both risotto and playlists are on time.
- Soundtrack the house. Tory uses a whole-home audio setup to pipe in mellow tracks. Spa vibes without the cucumber water.
- Make the party mobile. Their wagon-style bar rolls right out to the sidewalk for distanced hangs. Elderflower spritzes meet neighborly waves—peak NOLA energy.
Then there’s the 425-bottle wine pantry Britt designed—wire racks, clean sightlines, and a philosophy anchored in memory. Their cellar leans Old World with bottles that mark milestones: Emidio Pepe Montepulciano (Tory’s birth year), R. López de Heredia Viña Tondonia (Britt’s), and Philipponnat Champagne from the year Tory took the Executive Chef reins. The emotional center of gravity? White Burgundy. The couple even stashed a horizontal of 2015 Raveneau premier cru Chablis—the year they got married. That’s not just collecting; that’s storytelling in glass.
If you’re building your own “cellar with a soul,” borrow their playbook:
- Tie bottles to moments. Anniversaries, promotions, moves—wine tastes better when it holds a memory.
- Pick a theme for exploration. The McPhails Zoom through Chablis with a friend in L.A.; you could do the same with villages, producers, or vintages.
- Balance icons with discoveries. López de Heredia one night, a sleeper Burgundy the next. Your palate (and wallet) will thank you.
Speaking of Zoom, Commander’s Palace spun up a weekly wine party that sums up NOLA’s let’s-make-it-fun mentality. “We call it the Zoom that saved Wednesdays,” co-owner Ti Martin quips (via Wine Spectator, Hilary Sims). Locals get three bottles and a pound of cheese delivered, then taste along with Tory and wine director Dan Davis. Costumes encouraged. Knowledge optional. Vibes mandatory.
Even off the clock, the McPhails kept hospitality pointed outward. They cooked for Feed the Second Line, a Krewe of Red Beans initiative supporting the city’s culture bearers, riffing dishes like “eggs Louis Armstrong” that nod to the artists who give New Orleans its swing. It’s generosity with a grin—pretty much the city’s love language.
What I love about this story isn’t just the immaculate Greek Revival lines or the envy-inducing Chablis stash. It’s the way the McPhails blur the edges between design, food, wine, and community. The house works because the life inside it works—equal parts precision and play. If you’re rethinking your own wine-ready space, start simple: edit your kitchen to flow, carve a calm corner for sipping, roll a bar cart into the sunshine, and pick a theme for your next Zoom tasting. The terroir of your home matters as much as what’s in the glass.
One last line to tape on the fridge: “We’re gregarious people,” Tory says (Wine Spectator, Hilary Sims). That’s the blueprint. Build for togetherness, even when together looks like a sidewalk toast or a screen full of friends. The bottles will taste better for it.
Reporting based on “Wine & Design: At Home in a Pandemic” by Hilary Sims for Wine Spectator.
Source: https://www.winespectator.com/articles/wine-design-at-home-in-a-pandemic
