The Mosel has long been Germany’s cool kid in class—sleek Rieslings, slatey swagger, and acid as crisp as a dawn paddle-out. In his piece “New Faces in the Mosel,” Simon J Woolf digs into how this storied river valley is experimenting beyond its classic playbook, with natural wines taking a bigger slice of the conversation. As he puts it, “I see myself as an observer, not an influencer.” —Simon J Woolf, The Morning Claret.
Why This Matters
Behind every great bottle is a story, and this one matters. It reflects broader trends shaping how wine is made, sold, and enjoyed. Stay curious—your palate will thank you.
The anchor of his story is Jan Matthias Klein of Staffelter Hof—one of the region’s oldest estates and, lately, one of its most nimble. Jan’s early natural bottlings were curiosity-driven and technique-light (in the best way), including the Riesling called Madcap Magnus 2015, aged in 1,000L foudres and bottled by hand. The kicker? It wasn’t miles away from his classical Riesling, which says a lot about Mosel’s terroir-first personality. That experiment snowballed into a dedicated natural range under the Jan Matthias Klein label, complete with Aaron Scheuer’s graphic, characterful art and now—depending on the year—nine or ten cuvées. The breakout hit? Little Bastard, a juicy blend of Sauvignon Blanc, Riesling, Müller-Thurgau, and Muscat. In Woolf’s words: “It sold like hot cakes.” —Simon J Woolf, The Morning Claret.
“Now we had 22 wines from seven growers.
Key Takeaways
- Key themes: Mosel, Riesling, natural wine—stay informed on these evolving trends.
- The takeaway? Keep exploring, keep tasting, and don’t be afraid to try something new.
Style Snapshot: Mosel goes natural
- Region/Appellation: Mosel, Germany
- Primary grape: Riesling (plus blends featuring Sauvignon Blanc, Müller-Thurgau, Muscat)
- Typical style: Dry to off-dry, light to medium body, high acidity, slate-driven minerality
- Natural wine cues: Minimal additions, occasionally zero-added SO2, spontaneous ferments, foudre aging
The Mosel’s reputation rests on crystalline Riesling—think featherweight body and electric acid, often with a whisper of sweetness to balance. The new wave Woolf highlights doesn’t ditch that DNA; it explores it through the lens of low-intervention winemaking. That’s key. When natural Mosel Riesling still tastes recognizably Mosel, you’re not chasing novelty—you’re deepening the conversation about place.
Context: Why this matters (and who’s pouring what)
Woolf’s tasting wasn’t a casual Friday night lineup. “Now we had 22 wines from seven growers.” —Simon J Woolf, The Morning Claret. Blind, with two other Riesling obsessives. That setup limits bias and puts style on center stage. The take-home isn’t a ranked list; it’s a snapshot of a region testing its boundaries without losing balance.
Jan’s arc is classic Mosel-meets-modern: start with Riesling from top sites like Steffensberg, strip back the safety rails, see what the fruit and ferment want to do. When Little Bastard resonates, you keep pushing—because blends can tell a truth about the region’s freshness and lift that single-varietal Riesling doesn’t always capture. Meanwhile, the broader Mosel crew is also playing with no-added-sulphites bottlings, certified organics, and value picks—signals that accessibility and sustainability aren’t afterthoughts.
Common wisdom says Mosel Riesling is the patron saint of precision. Woolf’s lens shows that precision can coexist with raw energy: a few wines are bottled by hand, some mature in large foudres, and the best of them still read as Mosel first, method second. For drinkers, that’s liberating. You don’t have to choose the orthodoxy of Spätlese versus the ethos of natural; you can taste how they overlap.
Buy intent: Who should dive in
If you’re Riesling-curious but wary of the funk sometimes associated with natural wine, Mosel is a smart gateway. Expect brightness, tension, and a clean finish, whether you’re in the dry or off-dry lane. If blends are your vibe, Little Bastard’s mix (Sauvignon Blanc + Riesling + Müller-Thurgau + Muscat) promises easy-drinking charm without dumbing it down. And if you’re collecting, keep an eye on labels under the Jan Matthias Klein banner—they’re evolving, not chasing trends.
Best occasion: A chill, music-on tasting night with friends who want to explore natural styles without getting lost at sea.
Best pairing direction: Lean towards fresh, high-acid-friendly plates—think sushi and crudo, Thai or Vietnamese with lime and herbs, soft goat cheese, and crunchy salads. Keep spice moderate if you’re in the bone-dry camp; dial it up gently if your Riesling leans off-dry.
Bottom line: Mosel’s new faces aren’t trying to reinvent the river. They’re letting it speak with fewer filters—still crisp, still slate-kissed, just a touch more candid. That’s a wave worth paddling into.
Source: https://themorningclaret.com/p/alternative-wines-of-the-mosel
