Mosel’s Natural Wine Wave: Jan Matthias Klein on Riesling and blends

The Mosel has long been the poster child for Riesling with altitude—steep slate slopes, nervy acidity, and a spectrum from bone-dry to dessert-worthy. But if you still think Mosel equals only classic, polished bottles, it’s time to update your mental map. Simon J Woolf’s latest piece for The Morning Claret introduces a new crew reshaping the region’s vibe—led by Jan Matthias Klein of Staffelter Hof—who’s gone from curious experimenter to standard-bearer for Mosel’s natural wine scene.

Woolf recounts a pivotal moment from 2016, when Klein bottled his first natural Riesling, Madcap Magnus. No additions, aged in 1,000-liter foudres, hand-bottled—the kind of back-to-basics move that can feel risky in a place known for precision. As Woolf notes, “It sold like hot cakes.” — Simon J Woolf, The Morning Claret.

Style snapshot: Mosel, Riesling, and the natural twist

Common ground first. Riesling in the Mosel is typically high-acid, intensely aromatic (think citrus, green apple, stone fruit), and ranges from dry to off-dry, with light to medium body. The region’s slate soils often translate to a subtle mineral line and electric freshness. That’s the baseline most of us expect.

What Klein and his peers are exploring is how those classic bones carry a more hands-off approach—spontaneous fermentations, minimal or no additions, sometimes a pinch of skin contact, and labels that embrace personality. Klein’s follow-up to Madcap Magnus included Little Bastard, a juicy, easy-drinking blend of Sauvignon Blanc, Riesling, Müller-Thurgau, and Muscat—proof that Mosel’s story doesn’t stop at single-varietal Riesling. If that mix sounds like a beach picnic in a bottle, you’re not wrong.

In tasting terms, these natural expressions often lean dry to off-dry, with light to medium body, keeping Riesling’s trademark acidity front and center. Texture can be a little more present; fruit profiles may feel less polished and more alive. It’s Mosel DNA with a freer hand.

Why this matters in Mosel right now

Woolf positions Klein’s evolution as both a personal pivot and a regional signal. After that first vintage, Klein doubled down, eventually creating a separate range under his own name that now accounts for most of his production. The snowball effect was real: new importers, new labels (with artwork by Aaron Scheuer), and a growing following for wines that still taste like Mosel—just with a fresher rhythm.

To benchmark the movement, Woolf gathered a blind lineup: “Now we had 22 wines from seven growers.” — Simon J Woolf, The Morning Claret. The point isn’t that classic Mosel is passé (it’s not), but that the region’s identity is broadening. Riesling, the icon, can comfortably share the stage with blends, experiments, and low-intervention approaches—and do it without losing the slate-and-sky signature.

That’s a meaningful shift for buyers. If you love Mosel’s precision but want more energy and edge, these bottles deliver. If you’ve avoided Mosel because you think everything is sweet, consider this a friendly nudge—dry and off-dry options abound, especially among the natural cohort. And for those curious about the natural wine world, Mosel’s take tends to be cleaner and more focused than the funk-forward stereotype.

Context: Tradition meets curiosity

The Mosel’s reputation wasn’t built overnight—it’s centuries of honing Riesling into the region’s calling card. Klein’s story shows how tradition and curiosity can coexist: fermenting without additions, embracing blends like Little Bastard, and letting vineyard character lead. Woolf’s account highlights that this isn’t a flash-in-the-pan trend; it’s a maturing conversation among growers who know the classical playbook and choose to riff on it.

Importantly, the tasting setup—blind, with multiple producers—signals that this isn’t a one-winery moment. It’s a micro-movement with quality ambition. And while Woolf flags icons for organic certification and no added sulfites across the lineup, the takeaway isn’t dogma—it’s that the Mosel’s future looks plural, not singular.

How to drink these

Best occasion: Casual gatherings where curiosity—rather than scores—drives the conversation. Think sunset on the deck, a record spinning, and friends who don’t mind debating slate versus skin contact.

Best pairing direction: Keep it fresh and flexible. Lean into acid-friendly foods—light seafood, crunchy salads, herby white meats, soft cheeses, and anything with citrus or a touch of spice. If Little Bastard is on the table, aim for picnic vibes and let the blend do the heavy lifting.

Bottom line: Mosel hasn’t lost its edge; it’s found a new one. Thanks to voices like Woolf and winemakers like Klein, the region’s classic Riesling backbone now supports a wider, more adventurous range—without forgetting where it came from.

Source: https://themorningclaret.com/p/alternative-wines-of-the-mosel