Skyaasen in Meursault: Elegant Aligoté & Bouzeron, First Look
If Burgundian wine were a surf break, Meursault is that perfectly shaped point: consistent, expressive, and worth paddling out for. Skyaasen—a micro négociant tucked right in Meursault’s core—is the new board in the quiver, shaped by a Norwegian-American duo and already catching the right kind of waves: delicacy, clarity, and restraint. Winehog’s Steen Öhman paid a first visit and came away impressed, especially by the house’s Aligoté and Bouzeron.
“The Aligoté is lovely and delicate and pure with a very crisp structure.” —Steen Öhman, Winehog
Skyaasen is helmed by Olivia (San Francisco roots) and Joachim (Norway), who moved to Burgundy in 2017 with big ambitions and a small footprint. Joachim studied viticulture and oenology in Beaune, then launched Maison Skyaasen, crafting their first vintage in Meursault’s old cuverie and vaulted cellars in 2019. Boutique scale, transparent intent.
Style Snapshot: Aligoté & Bouzeron
Two wines stood out in Öhman’s visit: the Maison Skyaasen Aligoté 2024 and Bouzeron Aligoté 2024. Both are described as finely etched and refreshingly crisp, the kind of whites that deliver joy without shouting.
Aligoté, Burgundy’s leaner white grape, is known for brisk acidity, citrus, green apple, and a mineral snap. When handled gently, it’s a beach-day refresher with enough backbone to play well at the table. Öhman’s notes point to exactly that kind of profile—delicate, pure, and tightly framed—plus a suggested drink window from 2027 and a “Very Good” 88 points. Translation: buy for the cellar or a patient wine fridge; this has the bones to open up nicely.
Bouzeron is the only communal appellation in Burgundy dedicated to Aligoté (more specifically, the revered Aligoté Doré). It often shows a bit more dimension than generic Aligoté, while keeping the same lift. Öhman’s Bouzeron note acknowledges slight reduction, but ultimately leans positive, highlighting balance and fruit depth with a “Very Good” 88–89 points and the same 2027 start date for drinking.
“Deep and lovely fruit.” —Steen Öhman, Winehog
Context: Why This Matters in Burgundy
We talk a lot about Chardonnay in Meursault, and sure, that’s the headline act. But the real Burgundy story is diversity at micro scale—producers who know how to coax detail and grace out of every parcel and grape, even the humble Aligoté. Micro négociants like Skyaasen can cherry-pick fruit and build a refined, house style: elegant, lucid, and light on its feet. Based on Öhman’s notes, that style is already in focus.
Common wisdom says Aligoté brought lean refreshment to cafés and oysters, often with a spritz of crème de cassis. That’s the bistro version. The modern Bouzeron/Aligoté movement—led by serious hands—leans toward purity, texture, and quiet complexity. Skyaasen’s approach fits the wave: not flashy, not oaky, just clean lines and fine detailing.
And a quick nod to reduction in Bouzeron: a whiff can be part of the style and often resolves with air or time. Here, Öhman finds it ultimately tempered—more spice note than flaw—and the wine’s balance and fruit carry the day. If you’re opening these young, a gentle decant or big-bowled glassware will help the aromatics stretch out.
Best occasion
Sunny afternoon tastings, pre-dinner aperitif, or the first bottle at a seafood-focused dinner. These are convivial, conversation-friendly whites.
Best pairing direction
Think briny and bright: oysters, chilled shrimp, crudo, goat cheese, sushi, or simply grilled white fish with lemon and herbs. Keep it light; let the acidity sing.
Buy Intent: Who Will Love This
If you gravitate toward precise, low-intervention whites with high acidity and little oak signature, Skyaasen’s Aligoté and Bouzeron are squarely in your lane. Burgundy fans looking beyond Chardonnay—and collectors who appreciate cellar-worthy Aligoté—should take note of the 2027 marker in Winehog’s review. The scores (88 and 88–89) signal quality without hype, and the “Very Good” designation suggests excellent value for Burgundy whites if pricing remains sane.
Bottom line: Skyaasen reads like a producer chasing elegance over extraction, clarity over flash. For a young house in Meursault, that’s a promising compass.
Note: Tasting and scores referenced are from Winehog’s first visit; I haven’t personally tasted these bottles (yet!).
Source site: Winehog – with a passion. Original author: Steen Öhman.
