When the world pressed pause, a New Orleans power duo—chef Tory McPhail of Commander’s Palace and wine pro Britt McPhail—hit play on a different kind of hospitality: at home. In Hilary Sims’ Wine Spectator profile, we get a peek at a Greek Revival sanctuary that’s equal parts smart design and unapologetic wine love, built to keep life flowing even when dining rooms don’t.
Key Takeaways
- Key themes: New Orleans, home design, wine pantry—stay informed on these evolving trends.
- The takeaway? Keep exploring, keep tasting, and don’t be afraid to try something new.
Why This Matters
The wine world moves fast, and this story captures a pivotal moment. Whether you’re a casual sipper or a dedicated collector, understanding these shifts helps you make smarter choices about what ends up in your glass.
The pivot started fast. March 16 hit like a rogue set, and the restaurant scrambled to curbside and a wine concierge program. As Tory put it, “On my calendar in Sharpie it says, ‘All heck breaks loose.’” —Hilary Sims, Wine Spectator. Britt, formerly with Wines Unlimited, shifted gears to Martin Wine Cellar—splitting weeks between selling bottles and quietly crushing it in the kitchen. Hustle meets heart, NOLA-style.
But here’s the clever bit: the McPhails designed their home in 2018 to be a workhorse for entertaining and everyday life. Greek Revival bones meet breezy beach vibes—crisp lines, floor-to-ceiling windows, and an 865-square-foot social core that stitches together chef’s kitchen, dining nook, and living room with straight-line logic. You can almost hear the mise en place whisper, “Flow state.” Tory’s take on it is peak Sunday zen: “It just feels like a spa on an early Sunday morning.” —Hilary Sims, Wine Spectator.
And because you can’t keep good spirits indoors, they roll a wagon-style bar right onto the sidewalk, cocktail shaker in tow. Cava, St-Germain, Chapoutier rosé—whatever’s in the neighborhood arsenal—becomes a walking happy hour. It’s the Irish Channel version of a beach parking lot tailgate, just with better glassware and infinitely more charm.
Inside, the star is a visually striking 425-bottle wine pantry that Britt designed—Pinterest inspiration, wire racks from Wine Racks America, and a collector’s heart. The lineup leans Old World: birth-year bottles (Emidio Pepe Montepulciano d’Abruzzo and López de Heredia Viña Tondonia), a celebratory 2002 Philipponnat, and a serious Burgundy streak. When Tory was named executive chef, he was poured Chassagne-Montrachet—a forever memory. The cellar also rocks a Raveneau premier cru Chablis horizontal from 2015, the year they married. Romance, but make it mineral.
Zoom didn’t kill the party either. Commander’s Palace launched “Don’t Stand So Close to Me,” a weekly wine-and-cheese delivery plus virtual hang with Tory and wine director Dan Davis. As co-owner Ti Martin famously says, “We call it the Zoom that saved Wednesdays.” —Hilary Sims, Wine Spectator. Costumes, music, and actual learning—sometimes on purpose. It’s proof that hospitality can still feel like hospitality, even through a laptop camera.
And because this is New Orleans, the McPhails point their skills back to community. Cooking for Feed the Second Line—supporting culture bearers with groceries and meals—they’ve turned dishes into joyful riffs (looking at you, “eggs Louis Armstrong”). In a year that felt like a pressure test, that kind of generosity is the palate cleanser we all needed.
So what can the rest of us steal—purely in a tasteful, legal way—from their playbook?
- Design for flow: Straight-line kitchen layouts keep prep, cook, and plate intuitive. Muscle memory beats chaos every time.
- Build your mood: A whole-home audio system is underrated. Pair ambient playlists with crisp whites for instant spa energy.
- Mobilize the bar: A wagon bar turns neighbors into guests. Stock bubbles, a citrusy liqueur, and one versatile rosé.
- Curate with meaning: Birth-year bottles and milestone vintages give your cellar a story—not just a price tag.
- Zoom smart: Three-bottle flights plus a cheese pairing keep virtual tastings focused. Theme nights add personality.
- Explore Chablis: From Raveneau dreams to weeknight-friendly producers, it’s Burgundy’s cool, saline kiss—ideal for seafood and heat.
The takeaway? Thoughtful design plus intentional drinking isn’t just lifestyle fluff—it’s resilience. Whether you’re staring down another news cycle or just trying to make dinner feel like an occasion, the McPhails’ approach is a reminder: put care into the space, curate your bottles, and share the good stuff. Even at six feet apart.
Original article by Hilary Sims, published on Wine Spectator.
Source: https://www.winespectator.com/articles/wine-design-at-home-in-a-pandemic
