In Burgundy, the terroir is sacred. The markups? Less so. Steen Öhman of Winehog just fired a very clear shot across the bow of restaurants playing fast and loose with their wine pricing, and honestly, it’s overdue.
Key Takeaways
- Key themes: Burgundy, Restaurant Wine Lists, Wine Pricing—stay informed on these evolving trends.
- The takeaway? Keep exploring, keep tasting, and don’t be afraid to try something new.
Why This Matters
Behind every great bottle is a story, and this one matters. It reflects broader trends shaping how wine is made, sold, and enjoyed. Stay curious—your palate will thank you.
“From the beginning of 2026 I will remove the worst and most greedy restaurants from my restaurant recommendations one by one.” —Steen Öhman, Winehog
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That’s not a vague subtweet; that’s a policy. If you’ve followed Winehog, you know Öhman’s recommendations carry weight with Burgundy lovers who can sniff out a village-level nuance from three vineyards away. When he says he’ll start pruning the list, owners should listen.
The core beef is simple: some restaurants are treating local bottles like scratch-off lottery tickets, ratcheting prices into the stratosphere because they assume diners won’t notice. Spoiler: we notice. Many Burgundy fans actually know producer release prices at the domaines, and we can do math without taking off our shoes.
“The kitchens do huge margins on local wines.” —Steen Öhman, Winehog
Margins are fine—restaurants aren’t charities. But there’s a big difference between sustainable and shameless. Burgundy’s already pricey ecosystem doesn’t need a booster rocket strapped to the bottom just so your 1er cru becomes a down payment on a new combi oven.
What’s refreshing here is the accountability. Öhman isn’t launching a mob; he’s cleaning his own house. First, he’ll quietly remove places from his recommendations. Then, in time, he’ll add a short explanation like “wines too expensive” or “kitchen uninspired.” That transparency helps readers decide where to spend a limited Burgundy budget—because frankly, most of us would rather invest in the glass than the garnish.
Let’s talk solutions—because it’s easy to dunk on gouging, harder to navigate around it.
How to read a Burgundy list without needing a side of Tums:
- Look for balance. A fair list has both flex bottles and thoughtful, modestly priced options from lesser-known producers and appellations.
- Chase the fringes. If the Vosne-Romanée looks bananas, pivot to Saint-Romain, Maranges, Santenay, or the Hautes-Côtes from a savvy grower.
- Vintage is your friend. Burgundy is about nuance. A cooler year might drink beautifully today—and be priced more kindly—than a “blockbuster.”
- Ask with intent. A good sommelier will steer you to delicious and fairly priced bottles. If the only answer is the priciest option, that’s a tell.
- Think by the glass. If the bottle prices are moon-bound, by-the-glass selections can offer sanity and discovery.
And for restaurateurs—because the best ones read this stuff—consider this a gentle nudge from the wine community. Transparency wins. Clearly posting corkage policies, avoiding thermal takeoff pricing on entry-level appellations, and rotating in true discoveries (not just trophy labels) builds long-term trust. You make the margin on hospitality as much as on bottles.
There’s also a cultural note worth underlining. Burgundy isn’t just another luxury SKU; it’s a living, breathing conversation between growers, vintages, and place. That’s why Winehog’s notion of vins d’émotion resonates: wine that moves you first, flexes second. When prices hijack the experience, the emotion gets priced out of the room.
Öhman’s move is, at heart, pro-guest and pro-wine. He’s not banning success or denying that costs are up (they are). He’s drawing a line around exploitative markups that make lesser wines feel like a dare. If you’re a restaurant doing the right thing—curating with integrity, pouring with enthusiasm, and keeping the entry points humane—this isn’t about you. In fact, you’ll probably stand out even more as the dust settles.
For diners heading to Burgundy soon: bookmark those evolving Winehog recommendations and calibrate your expectations. Pay for provenance, not for opportunism. Seek out spots where the list reads like a love letter to local growers rather than a ransom note.
Bottom line: Burgundy will always carry a premium. But it should never feel like a penalty. And if the market needs a little sunlight to keep it honest, consider Winehog’s new policy a well-aimed skylight. Greed might sprint; reputation runs marathons.
Source: https://winehog.org/greedy-restaurant-the-end-72374/
