Winehog Calls Out Greedy Burgundy Restaurants and Price Gouging

File this under “someone finally said it.” Steen Öhman of Winehog is taking a stand against Burgundy restaurants turbo-charging wine list markups. As he puts it, “From the beginning of 2026 I will remove the worst and most greedy restaurants” from his recommendations. —Steen Öhman, Winehog – with a passion

It’s not exactly a secret that Burgundy—home to dry, often medium-bodied Pinot Noir and Chardonnay—has been the epicenter of both soulful wines and sticker-shock lists. But when a respected Burgundy specialist draws a line, consumers notice, and restaurateurs should too.

Öhman’s post is brief but blunt. He reminds restaurateurs, “We are … quite many people who know your prices at the domaines,” a polite way of saying: we can do the math. If the village wines are being treated like unicorn grands crus on the list, something’s off.

Style Snapshot: Burgundy in the crosshairs

Burgundy’s calling card is precision and place. Reds are predominantly Pinot Noir—dry, silky to firm, with red fruit, earth, and savory lift. Whites are Chardonnay—also dry, from mineral and taut to creamy and nutty depending on village and élevage. That nuance is exactly why diners pursue it in restaurants: context, glassware, service, and food that let the wine sing.

Common knowledge says: you pay for that experience. Fair. But the Winehog critique is aimed at excess—especially when “lesser wines that are not in very strong demand” get hyper-inflated. For Burgundy lovers, that’s the canary in the cellar: when humble appellations are mispriced, the whole list philosophy is probably out of tune.

As Öhman promises, “Some pages will be replaced by an explanation … like ‘wines too expensive.’” —Steen Öhman, Winehog – with a passion

What this means for Burgundy lovers

First, a little translation. If Winehog—the site behind the “Vins d’émotion” ethos—stops recommending a spot, it’s not because Burgundy should be cheap. It’s because the value-to-pleasure ratio has snapped. In a region where terroir is everything, the experience should reward curiosity, not punish it.

Second, this raises the bar for list curation. Smart programs still exist: balanced selections spanning Bourgogne-level up through premiers crus; transparent pricing ladders; and opportunities to explore off the beaten path (think Saint-Romain whites or Maranges reds) without feeling like you’re financing a new patio heater.

Lastly, this may encourage more diners to engage. Ask questions. Signal you’re open to new producers and villages. Restaurants that price fairly usually love that conversation.

How to navigate wine lists without rage-ordering

• Start in the middle. If the entry-level regional wines are egregiously priced, that’s a red flag. If they look sane, the rest of the ladder may be, too.
• Look beyond the trophy villages. Chassagne-Montrachet and Gevrey-Chambertin dazzle, but Saint-Aubin, Savigny-lès-Beaune, and Marsannay can deliver dry, characterful wines without punishment.
• Ask about vintages and storage. A caring program will tell you how the bottles were kept and why they’re on the list now.
• Be cool with alternatives. Loire Cabernet Franc, Cru Beaujolais, or Jura Chardonnay can scratch similar texture and energy at gentler prices.

And yes, it’s fair to ask for guidance based on style: “I’m after a dry, medium-bodied Pinot with red-fruited lift and a savory finish under X price—what do you recommend?” You’re not being difficult; you’re being precise. Burgundy taught us that.

Context: When passion meets the bill

Winehog’s stance isn’t about shaming restaurants out of business—it’s about defending the experience that makes Burgundy so addictive. If restaurants take massive margins on local wines, the least they can do is maintain integrity on the everyday bottles. That’s how you build loyal, curious guests who come back for both the kitchen and the cellar.

To be clear, no one’s asking for bargain-basement Meursault. We’re asking for proportionality. Let a solid Bourgogne Rouge remain an entry portal, a dry, mid-weight Pinot Noir that introduces the house style without requiring a second mortgage. Save the moonshots for the big nights, and price them like you want people to actually drink them.

As Öhman writes, “The list is a service to Winehog readers … and I solely decide who should be displayed.” That independence matters. It’s a signal to diners: you have allies who care about both emotion and fairness.

Best occasion: A celebratory dinner where you want Burgundy’s detail and poise without the regret hangover.

Best pairing direction: For Pinot Noir: roast poultry, mushrooms, and savory herbs. For Chardonnay: shellfish, lightly creamy sauces, and anything that loves minerality.

Here’s hoping more lists lean back toward discovery and away from opportunism. Burgundy’s magic is in the glass, not the markup.

“Some restaurateurs in Burgundy think that greed is unlimited.” —Steen Öhman, Winehog – with a passion

Source: https://winehog.org/greedy-restaurant-the-end-72374/