Winehog Calls Out Greedy Burgundy Restaurants: Enough Is Enough

In Burgundy, some restaurant wine lists have started to look less like gateways to joy and more like ATM screens. Steen Öhman of Winehog just drew a line in the Côte d’Or limestone, calling out the worst offenders and promising action. If you’ve ever opened a list and felt your pulse spike faster than a big-day swell, this one’s for you.

“Enough is enough.”

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—Steen Öhman, Winehog

Öhman’s stance is simple and refreshingly unvarnished: diners and Burgundy lovers can do the math. We know what domaines charge. We can see when a bottle is being rocketed into the stratosphere with little more than a shrug and a linen napkin. Starting at the beginning of 2026, he’ll begin removing the greediest restaurants from his recommendations—one by one—and then replace those listings with blunt explanations like “wines too expensive” or notes about underwhelming kitchens. That’s not a whisper campaign; it’s housekeeping with a conscience.

“I will remove the worst and most greedy restaurants.”

—Steen Öhman, Winehog

Let’s be crystal: markups aren’t evil. Restaurants have overhead—glassware breaks, cellars need managing, and sommeliers don’t subsist on fables and fumes. But there’s a canyon-sized gap between fair margins and “obscene markups,” especially when local wines are treated as cash cows. In Burgundy, where emotion is part of the pour, gouging undermines the entire ritual—terroir, craftsmanship, and the shared joy of opening something honest and alive.

Winehog’s perspective flows from the same ethos that informs his “vins d’émotion” mantra: celebrate wines that spark joy, not flex. As he puts it,

“A true vin d’émotion.”

—Steen Öhman, Winehog

If you’ve followed his writing, you know he’s all about bottles that hum with energy—hedonistic but not hollow, lively but grounded. Inflating prices on “lesser” wines that aren’t in raging demand doesn’t just hurt wallets; it smothers discovery. Those are precisely the bottles that turn casual curiosity into lifelong love. Crushing them under triple-digit multipliers? That’s killing the vibe and the pipeline.

So what does this mean for diners and Burgundy fans trying to navigate the maze?

• Look for transparency: reasonable comparisons to domaine pricing signal respect for both the wine and the drinker.
• Value service, not theatrics: a great sommelier adds context and care—not a surcharge for ceremony.
• Seek lists with range: a thoughtful spread of crus, vintages, and producers often goes hand-in-hand with fairer pricing.
• Don’t be shy: ask why a bottle is priced the way it is. Honest programs will have a clear answer.

And for restaurants: here’s the invitation (and honestly, the opportunity). Fair pricing builds loyalty—and better drinking. When you stop hyper-inflating low-demand wines, you invite guests to explore, taste widely, and come back. You keep the conversation centered on what matters: the wine in the glass and the story behind it. Burgundians—growers, merchants, and diners—are a community; treating their labor like a slot machine erodes trust faster than you can say Premox.

Öhman also promises to tidy his recommendation list with the same forthrightness he brings to tasting notes. First, removal; then clear reasons. It’s tough love, but it’s love. And while nobody likes being called out, accountability is the tide that lifts all boats—somm-led bistros, caveau-adjacent spots, and the humble neighborhood kitchen with a small but soulful list.

Where does this leave us? With a better blueprint. Support restaurants that respect the wine and their guests. Cheer for the places that pour “vins d’émotion” without a joy tax. And remember: Burgundy is a feeling, not a status symbol. When pricing honors that, everyone wins—the domaines, the diners, and yes, even the bottom line.

Original article by Steen Öhman at Winehog – with a passion.

Source: https://winehog.org/greedy-restaurant-the-end-72374/