Winehog Takes Aim at Greedy Burgundy Restaurants

If you’ve ever stared down a Burgundy wine list and wondered if the sommelier moonlights as a hedge fund manager, you’re not alone. Steen Öhman of Winehog just called time on the worst offenders, and honestly, it’s refreshing. In a new post, he lays out a plan to cut restaurants with abusive wine pricing from his recommended list—starting in 2026—and replace them with candid explanations. Consider it consumer advocacy with a Burgundian accent.

“From the beginning of 2026 I will remove the worst and most greedy restaurants.” — Steen Öhman, Winehog

What Winehog Is Saying (and Why It Matters)

Öhman’s central gripe is simple: some Burgundy restaurants are treating their wine lists like ATMs. He notes that many readers know domaine pricing and can do the math—so the markups aren’t just high, they’re “obscene.” The plan? Remove those spots from Winehog’s recommendations and make it clear why: think “wines too expensive” or “kitchen uninspired.” That transparency is rare in the hospitality world, and it sets a tone. In Burgundy, where demand for top bottles outstrips supply, restaurants absolutely have a right to profit; but there’s a line between fair margin and opportunism.

“The kitchens do huge margins on local wines.” — Steen Öhman, Winehog

Here’s the thing: Burgundy’s best wines are scarce, and scarcity breeds silly behavior. That’s not new. But pushing aggressive markups on lesser-demand bottles? That’s where diners feel exploited. Öhman’s move respects the producers, protects consumers, and nudges restaurants back toward hospitality over hoarding.

Burgundy Basics: Pinot, Chardonnay, and Price Reality

Quick refresher for anyone planning a trip or a splurge night: Burgundy is primarily Pinot Noir (reds) and Chardonnay (whites). Styles lean dry, with reds often medium-bodied and perfumed—think red cherry, soft tannins, savory earth. Whites run dry and precise—citrus, orchard fruit, mineral tension. Classic, restrained, and best enjoyed without the sticker shock.

In the region, bottle allocation and domain-to-restaurant relationships are a big deal. Some restaurants earn access to enviable lists; others buy secondary. But fair pricing doesn’t have to disappear with rare bottles. Structured, tiered margins can keep village-level wines approachable while still making the fancy stuff reflect scarcity without punishing curiosity.

How To Order Smarter (Without Losing Your Chill)

I’m a California-based Pinot and Chardonnay loyalist, and yes, we’ve got our own price reality over here—though my weekend surf checks make overpaying feel extra silly. A few ways to navigate:

• Ask for off-the-beaten-path appellations. Village-level wines and lesser-known crus can offer gorgeous value.
• Lean into vintages where supply isn’t a knife fight. A good list respects drinkability and discovery.
• Talk to the somm like a human being. If they love the wines, they’ll point you toward fair-priced, soulful bottles.
• Be clear about budget and style: dry, medium-bodied Pinot; mineral, dry Chardonnay—no surprise add-ons.

If a list feels like it’s auditioning for a luxury goods catalog, move on. Burgundy isn’t just top-shelf trophies; it’s vins d’émotion—wines that lift you up and make dinner better, not pricier.

What Öhman’s Move Signals

Winehog’s decision is a public nudge to restaurateurs: price with respect, not opportunism. It also gives travelers and Burgundy lovers a cleaner map: places where both the kitchen and the cellar play fair. Will it change everything? Probably not. But reputational gravity is real in wine, and transparent criticism from credible voices has a way of reshaping behavior.

And the framing matters. Winehog’s list, as Öhman reminds us, is his call: “a service to Winehog readers” and spots where he’d “eat and drink” himself. That personal curation is part of why people value his view—he’s not out to punish restaurants, he’s calling for better hospitality.

Best Occasion + Pairing Direction

Best occasion: a Burgundy-focused dinner where the wine list reads like hospitality, not high finance.

Best pairing direction: classic, comforting fare—roast chicken, mushroom pasta, charcuterie—lets dry, medium-bodied Pinot Noir and mineral-leaning Chardonnay do the talking.

Closing takeaway: Burgundy thrives on emotion and integrity. If a restaurant’s pricing smothers both, it deserves a timeout. Kudos to Winehog for spelling that out—and giving diners a cleaner path to genuine pleasure.

Source: https://winehog.org/greedy-restaurant-the-end-72374/