Winehog Calls Out Greedy Burgundy Restaurants—What It Means for You

As someone who splits her time between California sunsets and French wine lists, I’m all for a little joie de vivre. But there’s a difference between joy and gouging. In a new post, Winehog’s Steen Öhman draws a line in the Côte d’Or sand, taking aim at Burgundy restaurants with eye-watering wine markups—and promising consequences.

Öhman doesn’t mince words: “Some restaurateurs in Burgundy think that greed is unlimited,” —Steen Öhman, Winehog. And he’s moving from frustration to action: “From the beginning of 2026 I will remove the worst and most greedy restaurants from my restaurant recommendations one by one.” —Steen Öhman, Winehog.

Translation: if you’re dining in Burgundy and the wine list looks like a hedge fund prospectus, expect fewer glowing recommendations from Winehog. He even plans to label pages with reasons like “wines too expensive.” —Steen Öhman, Winehog.

Style Snapshot: Burgundy Basics for Smarter Ordering

Quick refresher: Burgundy is overwhelmingly Pinot Noir (reds) and Chardonnay (whites). Both are typically dry. Pinot in Burgundy leans medium-bodied, high acidity, fine tannins, and a spectrum from red cherry to forest floor as you move up quality tiers and crus. Chardonnay here ranges from taut and mineral (think Chablis-esque energy) to layered and creamy with restrained oak in the Côte de Beaune.

Why this matters: smart diners look for stylistic fit, not just labels. Village wines can offer elegance without the premier cru surcharge. Lesser-known lieux-dits or overlooked producers may still nail the classic Burgundy vibe—lithe, savory Pinot; focused, mineral Chardonnay—at sane prices.

Context: Pricing, Scarcity, and When Markups Go Overboard

Markup isn’t inherently evil—restaurants have overheads, cellars, and stemware graveyards. But Öhman’s point targets the hyper-inflation of “lesser wines that are not in very strong demand.” In other words, some lists aren’t just capitalizing on scarcity; they’re exploiting it.

Burgundy has genuine scarcity: small vineyards, weather drama, and global demand. The classics—Vosne-Romanée, Chambolle-Musigny, Meursault—carry premium pricing for good reason. Still, there’s a line between fair margin and what Öhman calls “obscene markups.” Consumers don’t mind paying for careful curation; they balk when a modest Bourgogne Rouge is priced like a grand cru runway model.

Here’s where you can push back—politely. Ask for by-the-glass wines from quality producers that match your style preferences (dry, medium-bodied Pinot; dry, mineral Chardonnay). Request recommendations that avoid trophy bottles. If the sommelier seems more excited about showing you a sleeper Saint-Romain than a flex-y Corton-Charlemagne, that’s your person.

Best Occasion + Pairing Direction

Best occasion: a celebratory dinner where the list treats Burgundy with respect rather than shock value.

Best pairing direction: for Pinot Noir, think roast poultry, mushrooms, or savory veggie dishes. For Chardonnay, lean into seafood, lightly creamy sauces, or simply grilled white fish—let the wine’s acidity and texture do the talking.

What Winehog’s Move Signals

Wine lists are editorial choices. When a trusted Burgundy specialist says he’ll “remove” and later explain why a restaurant is off the list, he’s protecting his readers—and frankly, the integrity of Burgundy’s vins d’émotion. If a kitchen makes “huge margins on local wines,” as Öhman notes, it should at least deliver cooking that’s more inspiring than “sloppy sous-chef.” Fair.

For travelers, this is a nudge to use recommendations wisely and watch for updates in 2026. If you see a Winehog-approved spot, odds are better that the list respects both the wines and the guests. For restaurateurs, it’s a wake-up call: win hearts with balanced pricing, thoughtful selections, and food that matches the wines’ nuance.

My take? Burgundy’s magic is balance—tension between fruit, acid, earth, and oak. Restaurant lists should mirror that ethos. Balance margins, respect producers, and let guests discover why Pinot and Chardonnay from Burgundy remain the standard-bearers for dry, expressive, food-loving wines. The moment a list becomes a cash grab, it stops being about terroir and starts being about theater. And nobody needs $90 village-level theater.

If you’re planning a visit, build a short list of spots with transparent pricing, ask locals (sommeliers, merchants, wine geeks), and be open to discovery. Burgundy rewards curiosity—and so do the best wine lists.

Original article by Steen Öhman, Winehog – with a passion.

Source: https://winehog.org/greedy-restaurant-the-end-72374/